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Textiles stakeholders balk at proliferating standards

In an open letter to the Stichting ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) Foundation, executives from the companies said the growing number of standards and related testing protocols have increased complexity and raised costs, creating an obstacle to the larger goal of greening the textiles supply chain. ZDHC’s Roadmap to Zero program takes a holistic approach to tackling the issue of hazardous chemicals in the global textiles, leather and footwear value chains. The various types of requests coming from brands and mills affiliated with the initiative are slowing advancement, the writers asserted. Signatories to the letter include Archroma, Colourtex, DyStar, Huntsman, Jay Chemical, Protex, Pulcra, Rudolf and Tanatex. The companies said they support compliance and sustainability advancement but believe a single industry standard would provide the most cost-effective approach for the textile value chain. “It is our intention to strongly support any initiative that aims to eliminate hazardous chemicals from within the textile supply chain,” they wrote. However, individual brands have been seeking to differentiate their offerings by requiring “individualized” MRSLs ( Manufacturing Restricted Substances List ), complicating efforts and adding costs, according to the dye and chemical firms. They argue that the bluesign system is the most encompassing of the current discharge reduction programs and that the ZDHC Foundation is the most appropriate platform for the industry to use toward harmonizing discharge standards, testing and screening methodologies. The ZDHC initiative launched in 2011 and the Stichting ZDHC Foundation followed in 2014. A number of companies involved with home textiles are contributors to the ZDHC program, including Birla Cellulose, Bureau Veritas, H&M, Marks & Spencer, Lenzing, Oeko-Tex, Primark, SGS, Sustainable Down Source and Target.

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